2018 Summer Trip to Nepal- PART 2 : The FOOD

For Felix and me, while we're fascinated by the culture and the sights of any place we travel to, if we're being very honest, the main aspect of all our holiday planning revolves around the food. Can you tell by looking at us?haha

But it's true, we find we learn so much about a place from their food culture, food habits and hospitality of a particular country. In Nepal, Felix and I ate like there was no tomorrow! There was such a variety of cuisines and options available that we were spoiled for choice. 

So I decided I'd dedicate a whole post to the amazing food we ate in Nepal! Here are some of our most memorable eats there.

TINY CHINESE JOINT ON THE CORNER OF JP MARG, THAMEL

As soon as we checked in to our Hotel in the popular Thamel area of Kathmandu in the late afternoon, we had a quick wash, changed, sorted out our itinerary for the next day and got out to explore our surroundings  and of course, see what was there to eat!

 We encountered this small hole in the wall eating place nearby and were drawn to the patrons eating from extremely large steaming bowls of soup and drinking local beer.

When we stepped in the place, it was like any small joint you'd find in India, a little messy, slightly greasy but with the most amazing food smells you can imagine. Felix and I are adventurous about our food choices and have no qualms from eating at tiny joints and kiosks but if you're a someone who's very particular then this might not be the place for you but trust me, If you can get past it's essential dinginess ( I think it brings character!😄), the food was a treat!

The  boys running the place spoke only Chinese and Nepali, but with hand gestures and the helpful large numbered menu which gives full descriptions of the items, we ordered a bowl of noodle soup and an extremely delicious meat preparation, both made with buff.

No, I haven't misspelled beef. Nepal is the worlds only Hindu kingdom and cow aka beef is completely banned here. BUT, you'll find buffalo is served everywhere and found for cheap. The Nepalese call it Buff.

We ordered the local Nepalese Gorkha beer to go with it our food and it was so potent and heady, that Felix and I were happily buzzed in minutes ( yay! no kids to worry about! haha) and enjoyed our food tremendously!

Spiced buff

Very strong Gorkha Beer

The delicious Buff Noodle Soup!

NANI'S KITCHEN AT PADMA HOTEL IN BOUDHA

Nani's Kitchen is a higher end place inside of the Boudhanath Complex in Kathmandu. They're a rooftop restaurant ( as many restaurants are in Nepal!) and the decor, ambiance and view were all sensational here!

Alcohol is served and the food ranges from European to Traditional. I chose to have a full traditional Newari ( ethnic Nepalese) Thali along with my Caipiroshka.

It was very different for sure and we enjoyed exploring it.

The beautiful set up of the roof top restaurant

Another Nepalese fav beer- Everest Beer!

First course of my Thali

Second course

The very unusual Newari thali ( no cooked rice! gasp!) 

THE JAPANESE KITCHEN- KIZUNA IN THAMEL SQUARE

This  was hands down the best meal I ate in Nepal! Thinking about it right now is making me hungry I promise you! Soooo Good!

Japanese kitchen Kizuna is a very small but highly highly rated open kitchen eatery ( few benches and tables placed outside) that served Japanese meals at unbelievable prices. If I could I would have eaten a lot more but the portions were so generous that it was impossible!

We had the set Pork Katsu meal and mixed Tempura ( Veggies and Prawn) and both were sooo freaking delicious. The tempura was light and crunchy , the generous pork katsu tender and juicy and the miso soup was perfect.

If this place was near home and at the same superb rates I'd eat there every day. No jokes.

Tempura and Miso Soup

Pork Katsu

OPEN BARBECUE STREET EATS NEAR FEWA LAKE, POKHARA

After we finished our Row boat experience at Fewa Lake, Felix and I took a long leisurely walk back to our Guesthouse. On the way, we were drawn by the delicious smells of an open barbeque.

The above sight greeted us on investigation!

There are little eateries that line the street and have amazing grilled meat in the evenings and we had to take a break and have a food fix before we headed back.

Nothing like a chilled beer, cool breeze and plenty of awesome grills to relish!

pork

Nepalese Sausage

Roast potatoes

COFFEE BREAK CAFE , NEAR FEWA LAKE POKHARA

Eggs Benedict

Set Breakfast with Scrambled egg

Just across the street from our Guesthouse in Pokhara was this lovely little cafe that served lovely European style Breakfasts.

Here's ours! It was some of the best Eggs Benedict I've had.

ASSORTED EATERIES ON THE STREETS AROUND FEWA LAKE

Iced Tea made right

Some delicious lemon drink

Spaghetti and Egg noodles

Pizza and beer at Your Cafe

Your Cafe- yummy pizza with a view of the lake

SAMOSA CHAAT OUTSIDE CITY CENTRE MALL IN KATHMANDU

KOREAN RESTAURANT PICNIC IN THAMEL

Kimbap with mixed fillings!

We stumbled on this gem after having a nice relaxed morning, strolling around Thamel and then taking pictures in the gorgeous Dream Gardens. We were walking back to our Hotel and were wondering what to do for lunch, when we saw this place with its low Asian style seating.

We went in and were not disappointed.  It was a Feast of Korean Food. And I got to eat all my favourites that I can't have in Goa.

Kimbap which are like a Korean Sushi and Bibim Bap, an awesome one bowl meal of goodness!Yum!

Buff Bulgogi

Bibim Bap

LOVING HOME COOKED MEALS AT THE HOUSES OF FELIX'S NEPALI FRIENDS

We also had the opportunity and honour of eating in the homes of Felix's Nepali friends who were so loving, warm and welcoming. We spent many pleasant and fun hours with these wonderful people who made us feel so at home.

We ate daal bhaat and Noodles and of course momos made at home just for us. It can't get better than this.

Our food journey in Nepal was just as wonderful as everything else in this tiny hospitable country.

a loving simple meal eaten with friends

Nepali momos made right!

Tough little yak cheese cookies

2018 Summer Trip to Nepal- PART 1 : The Absolute Top Highlights!

Nepal!! What was a spur of the moment decision turned out to be one of the most surprisingly fun trips Felix, my husband and I have taken. This Summer of 2018, For the first time ever we decided to go without the kids! We left with great trepidation and carefully contained excitement.

But Nepal went way beyond our ( I must admit initially low) expectations and was a Cornucopia of beautiful green mountains, placid lake, dusty busy city, 8 hour luxury bus rides, calming Temples and Stupas,fun adventure, loving friendly re-unions and aaamazing food!

Felix and I were completely de-stressed and spent some very precious quality time together.We walked for miles, laughed like maniacs, ate with gusto and slept so well we'd be up by 5 am everyday!In fact, I'm pleased to share that we didn't have a single argument, not even a minor disagreement in all the days we were there. Such was the Peaceful Effect of Nepal!:)

Since there were so many things that made this trip memorable for us,condensing everything into one post just wouldn't do it justice, so I'm going to be breaking it down into parts. 

So here goes!

PART 1-  The Absolute Top Highlights. These are experiences that were a first for me and unforgettable

Nap, Shower and Go at Delhi Airport
So Felix, my hubby and I looked up Flights to Nepal via Delhi online one night and thought they weren't too bad at all and we booked in a split second decision. We flew IndiGo all the way and it was an ok flight experience.
But in our excited haste we foolishly overlooked that we booked our flights to Nepal such that we had a FIFTEEN HOUR Stop over at Delhi airport between flights!! We realised it too late.
And for some reason that I can't recall right now, ( mostly we were in a bold and jaunty mood thinking we would be kid and stress free), we decided we'd wait it out at the Airport...Overnight...for 15 hours...yeah.
Like we kept asking each other " HOW HARD COULD IT BE?"
Well, turns out kids or no kids we learned that we're now old farts too used to our middle aged comforts.. haha
We landed in Delhi at 8 pm and then took a transfer to the International "lounge" (The place barely deserving to be called that).It was about 9 ish. Our flight was at 11 next morning!
By 2 am, after endless walks, looking at the same little shops, sitting on hard horrible chairs, having death races for the meagre loungers,we realized that we'd had enough!!!
Thank Goodness for PLAZA PREMIUM LOUNGE!
They're a "Nap, Shower and Go" place inside the Delhi Airport. You pay by the hour for a tiny Luxury Room with all the amenities of a starred hotel.
We paid 5000/- for 6 hours ( light refreshments included) and i don't regret it one bit!
It was a first for me and a very nice experience too!
After a superb nap, shower and coffee in bed we were popping to fly the next morning!

at 2:30 am...

light refereshments

fresh to fly!

Multiple Cremations at Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu
I have never seen a Hindu Cremation. Naturally. But, In Nepal I was witness to Three that were happening simultaneously at the famous and very revered Pashupatinath Temple that is located along the Banks of the Bagmati River!

This sprawling Hindu Temple Complex houses many Temples and Ashrams and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites List. The twelve Jyotirlinga (in India) are the body and the Jyotirlinga at Pashupatinath in Kathmandu (Nepal) is the head over this body.

However, besides its importance as site of pilgrimage what draws crowds of people(Both locals and Foreigners) to this unique temple is its open cremations.

Along the ghats there are many plateaus built for the open air cremations that take place on a daily basis. I learn that even in death there are disparities among humans. For there are designated places for the cremations, one for the royal family, another for affluent and well connected families and then several others for the regular people. The cremation places for the common folk are located on the other side of the bridge, out of sight from the places that are used by the royals and the rich.

As much as I wanted to experience this,I was also quite apprehensive.I didn't want to witness anything grisly or be disrespectful to the families of the deceased. But it was nothing like that, like everything else in Nepal, the serenity took over. There was calm and dignity and acceptance of the fate that ultimately awaits us all. 

And when it rained while we were there, it felt fitting.

365 Steps to Illumination: The Monkey Temple of Kathmandu

 On the little hillock of Swaymbhunath in the northwest of the Kathmandu Valley, sits the Swayambhunath Temple overlooking most parts of the valley. Its popularly also known as the "Monkey Temple" and we saw why..There were several monkeys frolicking everywhere! The glory of Kathmandu Valley is said to have started from this point. 

For the Buddhist Newars, in whose mythological history and origin myth as well as day-to-day religious practice Swayambhunath occupies a central position, it is probably the most sacred among Buddhist pilgrimage sites. For Tibetans and followers of Tibetan Buddhism, it is second only to Boudha. 

The complex consists of a stupa, a variety of shrines and temples, a Tibetan monastery and a museum and library are more recent additions. 

This is a good place to  experience the communal harmony in Nepal and take in the amazing panoramic views of pretty much the whole city.

But for me, Swaymbhunath will always be memorable for my climb up its exceedingly steep stone steps leading up to the shrine sitting atop the hill. 365 steps in all. Yes. And being as I am right now , probably at my worst, physically, this was quite the challenge!

 I breezed through the first 200 or so but as each step got steeper and higher, I pondered my prudence in not taking the straight road that leads right up ( Yes, there's an easier access but where's the fun in that right?). By the time I reached the top, huffing and puffing and legs trembling I felt like I had taken a bit of a pilgrimage myself, haha.

When I slowly walked around the Stupa, taking in deep breaths to calm my racing heart, that familiar tranquility that Nepal exudes came back..The sweat from my brow dried instantly in the cool, soothing breeze.The (also now familiar) words and melody of the Buddhist chant " Om Mani Padme Hum" fell on my ears, I put my hands to the spinning Prayer Wheels ,thanked God for this moment and continued around the Stupa in reverence on my shaky knees.

at the start: doesn't look that bad!

Finally: What the hell was I thinking?!!

Prayer Wheels...

Rowing On Fewa Lake
From Kathmandu we drove down to touristy Pokhara for a couple of days. Pokhara Valley is a great place for a variety of adventure activities like hiking, trekking, paragliding etc. 
On the first day there we went out on a rented row boat in the absolutely still Fewa Lake.

The lake is a major attraction to those who are drawn to water sports or families who simply love absorbing the beautiful scenery. The Annapurna Range and the Dhaulagiri Range loom in a distance and are mirrored on the calm surface of the lake.

 Away from the shore, the water is clean and deep and the dense forest along the south side of the lake is rich in wildlife. The lake also holds religious importance.The holyTaal Barahi temple is situated on an island in the lake.

The Barahi temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga, who protects the gods from demons. Durga takes in the form of a boar called Barahi to pierce her evil enemies with her pointed tusks.  Barahi is pictured with the face of a boar. On Saturdays, devotees make their way to the temple carrying animals for sacrifice.

So, we had the idea to row to the temple but unfortunately for us it was too late and we were told the temple was closed for visits. 

However that aside, the row boat experience was a memorable one for me. What I found out was that I absolutely SUCK at it. All I did was move the row boat in circles...They make it look so easy in movies!

Luckily Felix was a natural..or we'd still be there on the lake like a dog chasing its own tail! haha

Come on! Move!

sooo easy!

Beautiful Fewa Lake!

Paragliding in Pokhara

In Pokhara, I also ticked off a major experience from my bucket list. I flew in the sky like a bird!

Yes, I had the most amazing moment when we went Paragliding off the hills in Pokhara. Despite my many doubts and hesitations, I took the plunge (literally!) and it was an experience of a lifetime!

Team 5 Nepal Paragling, was the team of experienced pilots and instructors who made it happen and I can't praise them enough. These guys were friendly and extremely capable. They made sure my first paragliding experience was one I will always remember!

The churning of adrenaline in your belly as you race towards the edge of the cliff, that exact moment when you realise your feet are no longer on firm ground and everything is in slow motion except your racing heart and mind and the complete exhilaration when you just soar over open skies...I tell you it was beyond sensational!

My turn next...heart in my mouth!

Wohoo! On top of the World!